Head-shot How-to's

I thought I would do another little instructional series. This time on how to do a good head shot.

The basic ingredients for a head shot are obviously pretty simple:
1. A head (preferably attached to a body)
2. A camera with a long-ish lens
3. Lights/reflectors (optional)
4. A suitable background
5. Appropriate clothing
6. Image editing software (optional)

Putting them together just right can be the difference between an OK head shot and a great one.


1. A head
This is probably the second most important part of head shot photography. Although heads are fairly common, it is slightly less common to find a head that wants (or likes) having its picture taken. Most often this head will be in the form of a person needing a photograph, however it is not uncommon to go out and find consenting people who will agree to a head shot even if they don't particularly need one.

One of the first things you will want to do, should you be photographing someone who needs a head shot, is to find out how they will use the photo. Pretty basic. You don't want to photograph a gentleman in his workout clothes if he needs the photograph for an annual report. This doesn't really require much more explanation.

2. A camera with a long-ish lens
The camera/lens is the most important part of head shot photography. Although, arguably only slightly more important than the head itself. Without a camera there is no photograph!

Why a "long-ish" lens? This is because of the pleasing effect of a telephoto (or long) lens commonly known as "compression". Typically we think of compression in terms of backgrounds and the effect it has on them. However, if your subject should have a rather large nose, the compression of the long lens will help make it not as noticeable. Unfortunately this doesn't work for ears.

Whenever you watch a football game (or most other commonly televised sporting events) you will notice how when a player is on the screen, he/she is sharp and clearly focused while the people in the stands behind them are turned into a big blur of color. (See image for example) This blur is a direct result of a long lens and the compression it creates. This is especially useful in photography as you want the subject of your head shot to stand out and be the center of focus. You don't want the viewer to be looking at the background.

Another reason for a long-ish lens is that wide-angle lenses tend to make your subjects look un-realistic. Typically with wide-angle lenses, anything not directly in the center of the lens will be skewed or stretched a bit. If you ask photographers that do a lot of head shots what their favorite lens is, two lenses will pop up very frequently among the answers. They are the 85mm prime lens, and the 70-200mm zoom lens.
The 85mm offers razor sharp images because it is a prime lens (primes tend to be more sharp because they don't have as many elements as a zoom lens). It is, however, possible to convert any prime lens into a zoom lens. To do this, simply use the two appendages below your waist to move you closer or farther from the subject.

The 70-200mm lens is a great portrait lens because it allows the flexibility to zoom in very close to the person, while remaining a safe distance away in case they didn't take a shower that day. The 200mm end of that lens offers amazing compression which makes for very flattering portraits and head shots, but with the twist of the wrist, a wider shot can be composed for variety.
There are many other lenses that offer a farther focal length than 200mm, such as the 300mm or even the 400mm lenses. However, the drawbacks to using these are 1) super-telephoto lenses can cost upwards of $5,000. 2) The lenses are VERY heavy and cumbersome to use, allowing limited mobility. 3) In order to frame the subject properly, the photographer would have to be so far away that communication would be limited to smoke signals, walkie-talkies, and signal flags.


3. Lights/reflectors (optional)
Having lights and/or a reflector will help you to have more versatility. For example, a reflector is commonly used to reflect light into a darker part of the face. However, it can also be used to keep light off of the face altogether. Having lights means you don't have to battle the harsh sun light. Simply find a spot of shade, or use the reflector to block the sun, and you can provide your own light, however you want it to look - hard/soft, strong/weak, colored/neutral, left/right, from above/below, etc.

Typically, head shots are lit with soft light, either from a light source with an umbrella or softbox, or with light reflected from a large (white) surface. However, if the face is right or the client requests it, hard light can be used to make a much more dramatic portrait.
If the subject is a female, or if the subject's hair blends with the background, a hair light is typically used. The hair light will create a nice highlight on the subjects hair, which is flattering and also serves to keep the person's head from blending in to the background. (As illustrated by the painting/portrait to the left)

The Chemistry of a Photoshoot (part 2)

The last post went over with such a positive reaction (other than people not liking the font - which I am changing for further posts) that I decided to move up the schedule and write the 2nd part of the series.

The next thing I'd like to touch on is the energy of a photoshoot. This is really an unspoken thing in classes and seminars on photography. However, I have found that this can make or break a shoot.

What is so important about energy? Energy is what keeps a photographer going creatively. Energy is what keeps the subject(s) attention. Energy maintains a feeling of comfort and fun. All of these things are important to producing quality images.

I'd like to suggest some things to do to maintain a good level of energy, as well as some things to avoid.

The first thing, and often something that can be overlooked, is the atmosphere.
This mainly applies to an indoor shoot, as you can't always control the atmosphere of an outdoor shoot, especially if it is for a grunge theme and you are shooting near demolished buildings or dumpsters.

Imagine walking into a room that is darkly lit, quiet, and just looks bare. This is a perfect example of a negative energy atmosphere. It makes me sleepy just thinking about it.
I understand that it is sometimes important to shoot in darker conditions, however I believe you will find that most of the time you can leave all the lights on in a room (and even add some) and your photos will not be affected much.

For example, you may find that to shoot a properly exposed photograph in a room lit by tungsten lights you need to be shooting at 1/60th, f/2.8, at ISO 400. Most home lights do not have the power output that studio lights or even speedlights can put out. So you see, if you are shooting at 1/250th (the most common flash sync speed) and ISO 100 you will not come anywhere close to having interfering lights from the room. It is intimidating enough to stand in front of a camera and lights if you are not used to doing so. If the subjects are standing in front of bright lights in a dark room it could feel like an interrogation room, which never puts anyone at ease!

If you can, have upbeat music playing. Sometimes, if you are shooting a model, it may be a good idea to tell them to bring their ipod or a CD with music. This way you know for sure the music is something they will like and feel comfortable with. Play it loud enough to where it isn't just background music, but not so loud that you can't hear each other talk. This obviously doesn't apply to shooting on locations where you can't have music playing (outdoors, office environments, etc)

Another thing that will keep the energy going in your photoshoot is the photographer's energy. That's right, YOU can affect the shoot in a positive or negative way depending on how you are acting. If you are moving slowly, and talking quietly it will affect the mood of everyone there. The photographer should be the liveliest, most peppy person at the shoot. Your mood infects everyone present. If you are upbeat, it will show in the images you take. Try to get as many people smiling as you can while you are going through introductions and preliminary stuff.
If they remember you as the "fun photographer" they will want to work with you again and will cooperate with you more easily.

A common pitfall of some inexperienced photographers is to chimp after every image shot. Unless you are shooting light tests, or shooting inanimate objects, I beg you, don't do this!! It sucks all the energy out of the room by breaking the rhythm of the shoot.

Once you have set up the lights, inform your subject that you are going to do a series of light tests and that they don't have to pose or anything until you are done. This allows them to stay relaxed as long as possible, and also gets them used to the idea of how bright the flashing lights will be before they have to jump right in and start posing for your camera. Once you have the lights set up the way you want them, let your subject know you are ready to start shooting. From this point on, the lights will not change from shot to shot, so there really is no need to check your screen after every shot.

Imagine you are the subject and you're not used to having your photo taken. (This is common in corporate environments). If your photographer stops after every frame shot, you will start to feel like the shoot is going to take forever. So now, not only do you feel a little awkward or uncomfortable in front of the camera, but you are fully expecting it to take 25 minutes just to get one usable head shot.

Chimping after every frame also affects the rhythm of your shoot because every time you take the camera away from your eye several things happen on the subconscious level. First, the subject sees the camera is not pointed at them anymore and they will stop holding the pose you just worked so hard to get them into. If it takes you 30 seconds to chimp, and 30 more to get your subjects back into position before you can shoot, you waste 60 seconds every time you take the camera away from your eye. In any kind of high-pressure environment, a minute between frames is much too long!! Sometimes all you get with a subject is 5 minutes. If you spend 3 of those 5 minutes chimping you aren't going to walk away with much to work with.

Second, if there is more than one person posing for you the time between frames encourages them to start interacting with one another (usually out of boredom from waiting for you to finish looking). This is not necessarily a bad thing as it can put them at ease with one another, but it encourages movement and at times the subjects break out into uncomfortable laughter which is often hard to stop. There is nothing worse than needing someone to look serious for a photograph and being met with uncontrollable laughter on their end. It is both frustrating and time consuming to get them to get their head back into the shoot. This isn't to say you can't have fun while shooting, but it all depends on the shot. You don't find many Forbes covers where the CEO is rolling on the floor from laughter...

Finally, it affects you as a photographer, because every time you stop to chimp you slow your creative flow. Your mind is no longer concentrating on capturing images. It gets away from making great photographs and then has to concentrate on getting the camera back into the exact spot it was in, making sure the subjects are where they should be, etc. There's really no way to avoid chimping all together, I'm not suggesting that. But there is no reason to do it constantly after every exposure. Shoot 3, 4, 5 frames and then glance quickly at what you have. Shoot 4 or 5 more frames, and glance quickly. The main reason for glancing at this point is to make sure that your subject(s) had all their eyes open, that they were smiling, or to make sure the posing was what you had intended.

One other point I'd like to stress is to always sound excited about your images. This contributes to the positive energy of the shoot.
After you've shot 5 or 6 frames, as you are checking them for closed eyes, etc, just comment on how good the photograph looks. Compliment the subject on their appearance, or their pose, or anything that comes to mind. This eases their mind and makes them feel more confident. Unless it is a truly amazing photograph I usually hold off on showing them any images until the very end. Again, walking away from the spot you are shooting from means you have to rethink part of the process when you get back, which eats up time and takes your mind off of getting what you came for. However, if you feel like the subject needs to see the image they are helping create then by all means - go for it. Having a subject who won't cooperate or doesn't feel comfortable being photographed can and will ruin a potentially great photograph.

Hope this is helpful and informative. I know it was a bit long but there was a lot to go over.
Stay tuned for more!

(Merry Christmas)

R.

Issey in Blue

I haven't posted much in the past few weeks so I thought it would be fun to throw together a quick product shot.

Let's start with the product:

This is a bottle of Issey Miyake cologne. (image taken from www.macys.com)
Nothing really special about this shot. The bottle is well lit, and there is a small reflection, possibly done in photoshop after the fact.
Pretty easy to replicate if you have the lights to do so.
Here is one of my first test shots:


I didn't remove the horizon line or blow out the white background but I think you'd agree that for a test shot this is pretty close to the macy's one.

The first thing I wanted to do was to create a little mood in the photo. I did this in about 3 seconds by putting a blue gel over my main light:


So there you see we already have a pretty strong image. However, the top of the bottle is completely dark since it is lit from the back. This is a quick fix. By pointing a 2nd light with a grid (to limit the beam) at the lid, we solve the issue.


As you can see, the image is starting to come together.
Just out of personal preference I switched the side that the blue light was on and also positioned the bottle differently after this. At the same time, I decided I'd like the blue to be richer, which meant making the light not quite as bright.


The final touch is to make the background a bit more interesting. Right now it is just dark and isn't really working for me.
To liven things up a bit I added a 3rd light, with a blue gel and a grid and positioned it so that the light would fall across the background.

After some tweaking here is our final image:


Pretty nice image, and fore sure more interesting than the original image!

Hot Pursuit

I mentioned in an earlier post that I was doing a shoot with a police officer. The shoot didn't go as well as planned unfortunately. We got a late start and I had some equipment problems. Actually I can't blame it on equipment. It was more a brain malfunction. I forgot that for the camera to be able to snap quick photos in remote mode it needed to be pre-focused and not on "auto-focus" mode. It took me 10 minutes to figure that out so that was more time lost.
The next problem I ran into was that the lights on a police car are much brighter than those of an ambulance. This produced a lot of lens flare and every spec of dust on my lens became a big blob of light. So after fixing that we made one last pass and I got a few usable images before moving on to the next setup.

Here is a Horizontal crop of one of the better ones:



To get this shot the camera was mounted to the rear window on the left side of my vehicle. The shutter was fired via pocket wizard, which was set to relay mode and fired a strobe in the police vehicle as well.

Here is another shot we did. The setup was basically the same except the camera was on the hoot of the police car and not on my vehicle.



Special thanks to Jake and to the Allen P.D. for letting us do this shoot!
I'll post some behind-the-scenes photos of this shoot in a little while.